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Wilderness & Resources

Yellowstone National Park: A user's guide

No one believed the stories told by mountain men who first explored this area of Wyoming. Even today, you might not believe your eyes, so plan on more than one visit to see all the wonders.

By Clint WilliamsTue, Jul 05 2011 at 8:10 AM EST
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Grand Prismatic Springs at Yellowstone National Park Snow Photo: Steve Selwood/Flickr
60 parks in 60 days logoYellowstone National Park is a place of superlatives: the world’s first national park, the world’s largest concentration of geysers, the largest lake above 7,000 feet in North America, the largest concentration of mammals in the lower 48. There are dozens of sites (and sights) worth the trip if they existed in isolation: Old Faithful, Yellowstone Lake, West Thumb Geyser Basin, the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River, a grand chasm more than 1,000 feet deep. And you can see them all — and more — in a day, if you don’t stop too often to watch bison, elk, pronghorn antelope, grizzly bears and wolves. 
 
Bottom line: A visit to Yellowstone National Park needs to be on your bucket list. 
 
History
Mountain men roaming the Yellowstone area — including John Colter, a member of the Lewis and Clark expedition — told tales of the wonders they found here and no one believed them. A series of expeditions starting in 1869 verified what were thought to be tall tales and an 1871 expedition led by Ferdinand Hayden, head of the U.S. Geological and Geographical Survey, brought back scientific surveys and, perhaps more importantly, paintings by Thomas Moran and Henry W. Elliot, and photographs by William Henry Jackson. The nation was captivated. President Ulysses S. Grant signed the Yellowstone National Park Protection Act, which granted the area national park status, on March 1, 1872. (Editor's note: Yellowstone has been in the news this week, from the recent spill in the Yellowstone River to the hiker killed there by a mother grizzly bear.)
 
Things to do
bison at YellowstoneThe landscape takes on new meaning when you have someone to explain what you’re looking at, so sign up for one of the ranger-led walks. Rangers explain the geology of the geyser basins and the natural history of the Hayden Valley. They also carry bear spray. The walks range from easy to moderately taxing.
 
Cool off from hiking by taking a plunge into the Firehole River. The river cuts through a canyon so there is a bit of a water-slide effect when you jump in and the current swooshes you downstream.
 
There are 13 self-guided trails, some of them boardwalks where you look down at hot springs and mud pots. Hit them all.
 
Why you’ll want to come back
Know going in that you won’t be able to see everything. You might see a grizzly bear, but you won’t see wolves. You’ll see Old Faithful erupt, but miss the others. And if you hear it once, you’ll hear it a thousand times: “You should have been here the other day…”
 
Flora and fauna
Driving through Yellowstone National Park is like driving through a zoo. People come here to see bison and never leave disappointed. The park is home to 67 different mammals, including grizzly bears and gray wolves, reintroduced here in 1995. Visitors are likely to see elk, mule deer, moose and pronghorn. Driving the figure-8 road system through the park means frequent stops for “bear jams” or “bison jams” as drivers stop to gawk.
 
Along the lake and rivers you’re likely to spot trumpeter swans, the largest waterfowl in North America. You also may see common loons, osprey and bald eagles.
 
By the numbers:
  • Website: Yellowstone National Park
  • Park size: 2,221,766 acres or 3,472 square miles
  • 2010 visitation: 3,640,185
  • Busiest month: July, 957,785 visitors
  • Slowest month: November, 16, 819 visitors
  • Funky fact: Each year, the park has about 1,000 to 3,000 earthquakes.
 
This is an element of MNN's 60 parks in 60 days project, a user's guide for America's incredible park system. Come with us as we explore a wide variety of national, state and local gems, from the country's most famous national park to that special city park that only the locals know about. We'll be adding a new park every day from now until the end of August — one more reason to visit MNN more frequently. You can read about all of the parks here. 
 
Inset photo of bison: Katie & Ian/Flickr
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Related Topics: 60 parks in 60 days, National Parks, Nature, Outdoor Activities, Yellowstone National Park

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anonymous
Pedro Ortega, San juan, Puerto Rico 08/05/2011 22:47 PM

Just got back from RV vacation with the wife and kids and we spent 5 days in Yellowstone. Saw grizzlies on the road, hundreds of bison and elk, and the volcanic features plus the Canyon were just awesome. We all loved it and will never forget our days there. Hope to return one day and see/do what we missed..

anonymous
Alive..so far 07/11/2011 00:35 AM

Yellow Stone IS a Super-Volcano.It has been erupting almost exactly every 600.000 years so far.It`s been 640.000 years since the last eruption making us way past due,so it`s very near.No thanks...where I live I have a chance.Will be VERY horrible on the entire world for a very long time afterwards..if anyone survives this time...but i`m not stepping near that place.Thanks anyway !

anonymous
Anonymous 07/11/2011 05:20 AM

Relax just a little. You have to live with no regrets, as if today might be the last day...because it might be no matter where you are.

anonymous
Kevin 07/10/2011 11:16 AM

I have been longing to visit this park for last several years. What's the best time of the year to visit the park? Which part of the park is better to view?

anonymous
jlh 07/11/2011 11:28 AM

Each season has it's own beauty, although those who live near the park will tell you that there are only two seasons in YNP - winter & July/August!
Our favorite is Fall~ we usually arrive at Labor Day and spend the next week to two weeks out there. The crowds are less but there is less open as the month goes on. If at all possible stay inside the park and choose 2-3 locales to stay in as the park is VERY BIG and you don't want to spend all you time getting to where you are going.... More

The_Mick
The_Mick 07/09/2011 11:18 AM

I've spent a total of 9 days at Yellowstone National Park and, besides a very strong recommendation for everyone to visit it, note that it's MUCH cheaper to stay OUTSIDE the park at Gardner to the North, or West Yellowstone to the West of the park. There a also some very-inexpensive places just past the Northeast Entrance, but you then have a long drive each day since most of the best sites are on on the West side of the park. The problem with West Yellowstone, my favorite off-park place to.... More

anonymous
Diana 07/09/2011 09:04 AM

As a wildlife photographer who lives near Yellowstone and visits there 5-6 times a year...I can tell you that I am ALWAYS discovering new things, places, events every time I enter this park! I have been going into YNP on a regular basis for over 30+ years, and it just never gets old. Last winter (at -22 F), we shot images of a beautiful red fox hunting on the snowpack...and two Bison fighting atop snow-covered Soda Butte...and three Moose resting in a sunny spot along a frozen creek...and a.... More

anonymous
Hamill 07/05/2011 07:37 AM

I think you mean President Grant made it a National Park in 1872, right?

shicks
shicks 07/05/2011 12:31 PM

Yes, the park protection act is what elevated the area to national park status.

MNN editor

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