As commercial fleets mine the deep seas for what remains of once abundant species, the prognosis for large, ocean-going migratory fish is not good. However, adventurous eaters or the merely curious can dine well on sustainable versions of "surf and turf" and traditional seafood dishes reinterpreted for the perilous times that we're living in.

 

There's a lot to choose from besides sushi-grade tuna and farm-raised salmon, if you know what to ask for or how to prepare it. As a general rule, small, spiny fish rich in omega-3s are a safe choice, as are wild-caught fish harvested from Alaskan waters. Perhaps best of all, though, are local fish caught by an ethical angler willing to toss a few small fry back for tomorrow. Here are five cooking ideas for your next seafood adventure. (Text: Enrique Gili)