Desperately seeking standards
How organic is organic in personal-care products?
Wed, May 27, 2009 at 04:03 PM
CHOICES: It's hard to determine which seals have been verified by independent third parties and which are industry self-certifiers.
Organophiles lacking chemistry degrees often refer to cosmetics shopping as a Wild West adventure in lawless label territory. Adding to the confusion is a multiplicity of standards, along with an array of new seals, which will appear this fall.
The most credible seals set clear, uniform standards that are verified by independent third parties rather than industry self-certifiers. “Eventually, we want to get to the place where there’s one legal standard for organic and one for natural,” says Stacy Malkan of the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics. (Natural is currently a completely unregulated term.) Until then, to help you pick cosmetics with the fewest toxic, synthetic petrochemicals, here’s a US and European Union (EU) seal cheat sheet.
Requires independent third-party certification and a minimum of 95 percent certified–organic plant ingredients; 70 percent qualifies for “Made with Organic.” No synthetics or dirty chemistry permitted. ams.usda.gov/NOP
This fall, NSF International extends its food, water, and water filter third-party certification to cosmetics. Requires that products have 70 percent organic ingredients and very limited chemical processing or additives. NSF.org
This EU seal’s stringent definition of natural bans all petroleum-based ingredients. Third-party certified. kontrollierte-naturkosmetik.de
Somewhat weaker EU counterpart of USDA Organic; allows some synthetics. soilassociation.org
The new Natural Products Association’s third-party US standards are much like NSF’s but without the organic requirement. naturalproductsassoc.org
Whole Foods Premium Body Care
An in-store label developed with the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics for products sold in Whole Foods Market that are free of 250 toxic chemicals. wholefoodsmarket.com/wholebody/pbc
Organic And Sustainable Industry Standards (OASIS)
Industry-vetted EU label requires that products be 85 percent organic, going up to 95 percent by 2010. Allows some synthetics. oasisseal.org
A looser EU third-party seal requiring 95 percent natural ingredients, with a minimum 10 percent of those certified organic. ecocert.com
Story by Alexandra Zissu. This article originally appeared in Plenty in August 2008.
Copyright Environ Press 2008.