Summer is the time for outdoor grill parties or sitting on a deck on a hot summer night sipping cold drinks. Whether you’re a refurbishing beginner or a carpentry expert, it’s time to drag those worn backyard chairs out of the shed or restore a yard sale treasure using these simple guidelines:
PLASTIC CHAIRS (Skill level: Beginner): Chairs made of plastic composites need only to be cleaned with mild, soapy water and rinsed with a hose. Set the nozzle head on high to remove stubborn dirt or use a pressure sprayer on low setting. Let dry thoroughly. Once dry, lay them out on a large drop cloth. Spray paint them with paint made especially for plastic, following manufacturer’s instructions for application and cure time between coats. Feeling adventurous? Atlanta painter Kass Wilson published some great ideas for faux finishing plastic and fiberglass, which you could try on your backyard chairs.
METAL or WROUGHT IRON (Skill level: Beginner to intermediate): Metal chairs with scratches or rust spots can be taken care of by sanding the worst places with coarse or medium grit sandpaper. Use a stiff wire brush to remove any remaining rust and stubborn dirt. Wipe thoroughly with a damp, textured cloth to remove small particles, or use a tack cloth. Then apply a spray primer containing rust preventative. Once dry, apply two coats of exterior grade spray paint, waiting the recommended time in between coats. For ornate wrought iron chairs with cushions, remove the cushions first, or tape over them to prevent damage from overspray. Spray paints come in basic colors, but can be found in textured, hammered, bronze or verdigris finishes, all of which are fairly easy to apply and give you a modern, traditional or vintage look.
WOOD or ADIRONDACK STYLE (Skill level: Intermediate): Refurbishing wood chairs is not difficult, but it is time-consuming due to the extra steps involved in preparing them for repainting. First, wash the chair with a no-rinse cleaner such as Dirtex or a deck prep product. Remove any mold with an oxygen-based cleaning solution. Let dry thoroughly. Next, scrape off any loose paint, then sand the entire chair with a 150 grit paper until smooth. If there are any especially rough or splintered edges in the seat or arms, begin by using a coarse grit between 60 and 80, and switch to 150 grit to smooth out the surface. Vacuum and use a tack cloth to pick up any sawdust residue.
Apply one coat of a high quality exterior wood primer to the entire chair. For extra protection, apply a second coat to areas previously sanded down to bare wood. Follow with two exterior grade topcoats. If you’re super creative, think about painting a special design, or mix and match stencil designs to give your chairs a unique look.
RATTAN or WICKER (Skill level: Advanced): If you’ve got the know-how, with lots of patience a rickety or dirty rattan or wicker chair can be transformed into quaint, comfortable seating! Make sure you’re able to recognize the difference between rattan and wicker since renovation techniques will differ depending on the material — rattan is actually a type of wood while wicker refers to the natural materials used to weave the furniture, such as rushes, willow, or even bamboo or straw. Rattan has a stronger core and will typically appear stiffer and much stronger than wicker.
Rattan should be cleaned by brushing away surface dirt and dust. Using a short-bristled brush dipped in a mild soap solution, work from the top down, carefully scrubbing away residual dirt. Rinse the entire chair with plain water, patting it dry with a towel until it is damp, followed by a thorough air drying (this might take a few days). Avoid moving it around too much while it is wet or it could warp or stretch and potentially loosen the weave. Once dry, if there are loose joints in the frame, reglue, clamp and let dry. For larger joints, use screws to tighten things up.
Never use a brush to repaint rattan, or paint will clog up the weave and lead to ugly drips. Spray paint is your best bet, applying several light coats of paint, keeping the can at a distance to avoid heavy application. Rattan can also be stained with an oil-based product and finished with a clear topcoat (urethane is not recommended).
Tip: Rattan does not hold up well under severe weather conditions — remember to cover it or store it away in bad weather to keep it looking its best.
Like rattan, wicker should have heavy dirt precleaned out of the weave. You can then use a garden hose to tackle the worst spots, followed by washing with a soft brush and mild soap solution, then rinsed. To get rid of mold, spray with a mild bleach solution and rerinse. Dry thoroughly. Don’t neglect the underside of the furniture. Unless the piece has major damage, small areas where wicker has been broken or worked loose can be pushed back into place and/or reglued using wood glue. As with rattan, spray paint will yield the best results using multiple light coats. Follow with a clear topcoat.
Laura Foster-Bobroff originally wrote this for Networx.com. It is reprinted with permission.