Sally Fallon Morell sold me on a dream years ago. She lamented the fact that fast food was primarily composed of junk food — food that weighed us down instead of nourishing our bodies. Her hope was that someday people could sit down for a quick bowl of healthy soup instead of French fries. I loved that idea, but I doubted it would ever happen. I figured that the only option for getting nourishing food was making meals from her cookbook, "Nourishing Traditions," and then creating my own recipes (including soups and broths from my cookbook, "Ladled: Nourishing Soups for All Seasons").
But it looks like I shouldn’t have been so pessimistic. Morell was the one who made the term “bone broth” popular (signifying that the broth was made from long-simmered bones, rather than just meat). You see that term peppered in recipes, recommended by some nutritionists and health coaches, and with whole blog posts devoted to it. Its popularity is now so high that yes, “bone broths” are being offered to the public as fast food! For example, a local-to-me paleo food cart serves cups of lightly salted bone broth in Portland, Oregon.
And now the East Coast is getting a chance to buy real bone broth on the go as well. Marco Canora, owner and chef of the restaurant Hearth, is opening up the first ever (at least that I'm aware) take-out window selling not the ever-popular coffee, but sip-able broths instead.
With roots in an Italian food culture, Canora talks about how his love of broth started in his childhood, “I grew up in an Italian household, and brodo is something you have at all the holidays. Every Christmas dinner, every Easter dinner, they start with broth.”
At his restaurant Hearth, he makes “Hearth broth” that is made with two whole turkeys, 40 pounds of shin — a specific cut of beef — and 15 stewing hens. (Yes, he needs a very big pot to make this!) This broth is used in a wide variety of his menu items. Now he is letting broth shine on its own by offering it alone instead of embedded in other dishes.
At Brodo, which is around the corner from his restaurant, Canora currently offers three options — Grass-Fed Beef Broth infused with Ginger, Organic Chicken Broth and Hearth Broth. You can buy it in three different cup sizes, and also add a variety of things such as fresh turmeric, fermented beet kvass or chili oil.
But Canora doesn’t plan to stop there and has a lot of ideas for future broths (including vegetarian) and add-in options such as coconut milk and parsnip juice.
If I’m ever in New York, you better believe that I am planning on stopping by Brodo. It sounds amazing.
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